'Giorgio Armani | Spring Summer 2022 | Fashion Show Giorgio Armani founded his label when he was in his mid-40s with cash raised from selling his VW Beetle. That was when I was two years old. In the time since, he has built the largest single-shareholder company in all of fashion, and—I would say unarguably—established his place as the most important and influential designer in the world. He is no fool. Recently, Mr. Armani has been sending us messages. For his last Giorgio menswear collection and this week’s 40th-anniversary Emporio outing he appeared at the shows’ end with those he has anointed to carry the Armani torch in the future. Tonight, however, he reminded us all of where it all began. For the first time in over 20 years, Armani showed in the small basement room of his own Milan house (OK, it’s a palazzo). For those in the audience who were there the first time around, this brought back happy memories. For those of us who weren’t, it pressed the point that we were in the company of the father of Italian fashion. The collection was built on a simple yet profound notion, a love for the sea and sun. This is a big deal for Armani, a man whose tastes run more azzurro than celeste. The models were asked to smile, old-school style, as they sauntered as if from the beach to the yacht on a midsummer passeggiata. Some of them had been modelling for Mr. Armani for years, and for most the smiles seemed as unforced as the clothes seemed restrainedly designed. To a soundtrack of Italian maritime classics we saw a progression from flowing separates to cinched-waist sylph dresses. There were sections of aqua-tinted greige, a gorgeous top printed with the reliefs of flying swallows, and patterns that knowingly deconstructed Armani’s signatures into segmental decoration. When members of the audience clapped certain looks with suspiciously synchronized enthusiasm it was a comforting reminder of a ceremony long forgotten elsewhere. Mr. Armani came out for his bow and wave as the projected oceanic backdrop faded to a sunset. The man himself did not appear poised to dip behind the horizon anytime soon, but like the last two shows, this one was an acknowledgment that the horizon is there.'
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